[AMRadio] Octal Sockets.... more Ranger stuff


Rick Brashear rickbras at airmail.net
Sun Oct 22 14:44:43 EDT 2006


Well, the pictures answered several questions I had.  It has definitely 
been used with a modulator at one time or another since it seems to have 
all the transformers and components.  I appears the modulation 
transformer is completely disconnected from the modulator tubes.  I see 
you were able to get pin 8 in the two sockets, great.  I can't imagine 
why the crystal socket was removed and a modulator tube socket employed 
for the crystal.  Maybe the original crystal socket broke or something.  
If you haven't found a crystal socket yet I can send one along with the 
CD tomorrow.  It's obvious you are going to have to rebuild the 
modulator and crystal switch/socket sections.  Fortunately, there are no 
obscure parts or super hard wiring considerations in either section.  On 
the modulation transformer the brown wire goes to pin 3 of the socket of 
V10, the one closest to the outside edge of the chassis.  The blue wire 
goes to pin 3 of V9, the other modulator tube socket.  The red wire 
attaches to the terminal strip on lug 1 (so we'll call it) closest to 
V9, there will, or should be, a black wire already attached to it.  
Sometimes this configuration gets out of phase and you get extremely 
distorted or extremely low modulation.  If this happens simply switch 
the two wires going to the plates (pin 3) of the modulator tubes.  
Beware of the electrolytic you are holding in the first picture, it is 
likely defective and can be replaced with a couple of 10 mfd or higher 
at 150 vdc or more.

Rick



Jack Schmidling wrote:

>
>
> I put 3 pics of the most serious problem areas on my web site:
>
> http://schmidling.com/r_mod.jpg    Is a view of the bottom of the mod 
> tube sockets
>
> http://schmidling.com/r_mod1.jpg   Is the way the top looked before I 
> removed the xtal and cap.  I just stuck them back in for the pic.
>
> http://schmidling.com/r_xtal.jpg  Is what the crystal socket area 
> looks like.
>
> Unfortunately, without 3-D, you can't see all the dangling wires. I 
> guess that is where the pict drawings become useful.
>
> I am also trying to figure out how to fool my camera.  Seems like I 
> lose control when the flash is used no matter what manual setting I 
> force. It just supplies the light it thinks it needs and always 
> overexposes close ups.  It's a digital Rebel and I suspect it is smart 
> enough but I haven't figured it out yet.
>
> js
>
>




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