|[AMRadio] Octal Sockets.... more Ranger stuff|
wa9nqw at nconnect.net
Sun Oct 22 14:52:31 EDT 2006
My gen one Ranger has a octal socket for the two rocks accessible from
the front panel (under the cigarette lighter plug).
My guess is that, that part is OK.
On Oct 22, 2006, at 1:44 PM, Rick Brashear wrote:
> Well, the pictures answered several questions I had. It has
> definitely been used with a modulator at one time or another since it
> seems to have all the transformers and components. I appears the
> modulation transformer is completely disconnected from the modulator
> tubes. I see you were able to get pin 8 in the two sockets, great. I
> can't imagine why the crystal socket was removed and a modulator tube
> socket employed for the crystal. Maybe the original crystal socket
> broke or something. If you haven't found a crystal socket yet I can
> send one along with the CD tomorrow. It's obvious you are going to
> have to rebuild the modulator and crystal switch/socket sections.
> Fortunately, there are no obscure parts or super hard wiring
> considerations in either section. On the modulation transformer the
> brown wire goes to pin 3 of the socket of V10, the one closest to the
> outside edge of the chassis. The blue wire goes to pin 3 of V9, the
> other modulator tube socket. The red wire attaches to the terminal
> strip on lug 1 (so we'll call it) closest to V9, there will, or should
> be, a black wire already attached to it. Sometimes this configuration
> gets out of phase and you get extremely distorted or extremely low
> modulation. If this happens simply switch the two wires going to the
> plates (pin 3) of the modulator tubes. Beware of the electrolytic you
> are holding in the first picture, it is likely defective and can be
> replaced with a couple of 10 mfd or higher at 150 vdc or more.
> Jack Schmidling wrote:
>> I put 3 pics of the most serious problem areas on my web site:
>> http://schmidling.com/r_mod.jpg Is a view of the bottom of the mod
>> tube sockets
>> http://schmidling.com/r_mod1.jpg Is the way the top looked before I
>> removed the xtal and cap. I just stuck them back in for the pic.
>> http://schmidling.com/r_xtal.jpg Is what the crystal socket area
>> looks like.
>> Unfortunately, without 3-D, you can't see all the dangling wires. I
>> guess that is where the pict drawings become useful.
>> I am also trying to figure out how to fool my camera. Seems like I
>> lose control when the flash is used no matter what manual setting I
>> force. It just supplies the light it thinks it needs and always
>> overexposes close ups. It's a digital Rebel and I suspect it is
>> smart enough but I haven't figured it out yet.
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