[AMRadio] FS: AK 42, Crosley, HD-1410, NC-240D parts unit,

Don Merz n3rht at yahoo.com
Wed Sep 20 14:40:38 EDT 2006

FS: Boatanchor Flotsam and Jetsam. Floatation
(shipping) additional. 

Please reply to n3rht at yahoo.com. Please do not reply
to the list.

HP adapter frame. This frame allows you to mount 3 HP
counters or meters into a 19 inch rackmount format.
The front panel of the counter or meter must be 6
inches high and 5 inches wide. No modifications need
to be made to the counters or meters. The adapter
comes with 4 plastic brackets that grip the front trim
on the sides of the counters/meters and screw into the
frame. You don’t have to use all 3 slots--the adapter
can be used with just one counter or meter, or two, or
all 3. This adapter had 3 HP 5221A counters in it when
I got it. I am keeping the counters (only two of them
work) but I have no use for this bracket. Used. Dirty
but shouldd clean up to excellent looking condition.

Typical 1930’s-50’s homebrew RF deck. The panel is a
10.5 inch high black wrinkle masonite 19 inch rack
panel with 3 meters and 3 controls on it. There are no
extra holes. The 3 matching square meters are
Westinghouse types 0-100ma on the left, 0-10V filament
voltage in the center and 0-450ma final current on the
right. Underneath the meters are 2 controls--input
cap, filament volts rheostat and output cap. Behind
the panel is a 17 inch wide by 12 inch deep by 2 inch
high steel chassis mounting the input and output caps,
a 5-pin ceramic input coil socket (without coil), two
4-pin tube sockets connected in parallel and both
marked 35T (no tubes), the filament transformer and
that’s about it. Everything is mounted up on ceramic
standoffs. The Cardwell final cap is on its side with
4 ceramic posts with banana jacks on them on the top
side of the cap for plugging in a final coil (no coil
is present). The input cap has another small variable
hanging off of it.  I guess this was used to add some
extra capacitance when it was needed on the lower
bands. There are two medium-size disk-type netralizing
caps, one next to each 4-pin socket. The rear chassis
apron has ceramic standoffs for making HV and other
connections. There are hardly any parts mounted
underneath the chassis--just a few mica TX caps. I
plugged in 2 35T tubes which the filament transformer
and inline rheostat lit up nicely. But what does that
make this thing? It’s a great parts donor or it could
be used for it’s intended purpose. The chassis, due to
the use of ceramic standoffs for everything, has no
large holes in it at all--no tube socket holes, etc.
So it could be a pretty clean foundation for your own
final design or even a complete transmitter. As-is.

National NC-240D parts unit or restoration project for
the truly adventurous. Cosmetically, this has four
(count them--4!) 3/8 inch unoriginal holes drilled to
the left of the dial on the front panel. The dial
glass is missing but the dial itself is in nice shape.
The main tuning knob has been modified to replace the
center plastic knob part with the modern National
equivalent (as used on the NC-183D, etc). The skirt of
the main tuning knob has a layer of crud on it that
may or may not come off. Whatever control and knob was
supposed to be on the lower right is missing. The
cabinet paint is actually not bad--it should clean up
to look good. The cabinet has all the chrome trim
parts and the louvers in the sides. The top lid works
smoothly. The dial tunes correctly, but the band
change is frozen. The sliding coil catacomb underneath
the chassis does not budge. The electrolytics have
been slopily replaced and the result is not pretty.
The power transformer has also been replaced. There’s
a set of holes in the chassis that looks like an
IF-type can should be mounted there, but whatever was
there is missing.  There’s one rust spot about the
size of a quarter. But the rest of the chasis is just
dirty. Underneath, the bottom cover is missing. There
was a big mouse nest in there, but I cleaned it
out--or 95% of it anyway. All the tubes seem to be
present. There is some rust underneath the
chassis--especially around the brackets where the
bottom cover would normally be screwed on. The coil
catacomb and associated parts are not visibly rusty or
damaged so it’s not clear why it won’t move. The rest
of the parts underneath seem original except for 2
tube sockets mounted on the rear chassis apron that
are not original. One of these has no wiring connected
to it at all. The other is wired into the radio--for
what purpose, I can’t say, maybe break-in, since it
has a shorting socket plugged into it. All the tubes
are there, along with all the knobs and meter. This
radio does not have the pewter feet on it that I have
seen on some of these. Anyway, I will sell individual
parts or the whole thing for $35. It’s a heavy beast
so it may cost more than $35 to ship.

Heathkit IM-5210 40KV Probe. This is the one that
looks like a handheld HV probe with a meter built into
it. Looks excellent. Untested. With original manual.
$10 plus $8.60 US priority lfat rate box mailing with

Atwater Kent Model 42. This is one of the single-dial
tuning metal box radios finished in brown wrinkle with
the gold AK sailing ship ogo on top. The top cover
comes off. This radio works, though it is not very
sensitive without a real antenna (a six foot length of
wire on the floor will get you one local station). The
power supply--always an issue with these AK radios
because it is potted in tar-- has been rebuilt. In
addition to working, this radio looks absolutely
great, insiade and out. It has an excellent original
finish and the chassis only needs a light dustinging
to look really good. With all tubes. But you will need
to find a speaker (a simple dynamic type, not
electrodynamic). $95

Crosley Dynacone Type F electrodynamic paper-cone-type
speaker in round metal frame with metal grille. The
metal frame and grille are finished in brown wrinkle
paint. The whole thing stands on a small metal stand
and is 13 inches high. The speaker itself is 11 inches
in diameter, made of blue paper. It has no holes and
seems to be in excellent shape. The speaker is
supposed to have a brown-painted cardboard back on it
with 4 large holes but the cardboard back is missing.
Needs a good cleaning. Untested and as-is. $45

Heathkit HD-1410 Electronic Keyer. Looks good and
works well. The neon light may not be original--it is
slightly larger than the other ones I have seen on
these keyers and sticvks out more. Still, it would
take and expert to notice and does not affect the
keyer’s looks or operation.  $30 plus $8.60 US
priority flat rate box mailing with tracking.

Thanks for looking.
73, Don Merz, N3RHT

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