[Hallicrafters] Re: SX-101 help


Bill Pancake bpancake at mindspring.com
Wed Feb 4 11:13:17 EST 2004


Bill..... I'd recommend removing ONLY the four front panel "corner" screws. The other four screws hold the front panel to the chassis NOT the cabinet. Then look for three LARGE head screws on the UNDERSIDE of the cabinet to the rear.  You'll have to lift-up slightly on the chassis rear due to the power transformer and steel chassis weight as you maneuver the chassis forward or you'll risk scratching the paint on the front cabinet lip.  Good luck.  Bill. AB0ZZ


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: RE: Contact Cleaner & Radio Chemistry 101 (Barry Hauser)
   2. RE: Grommets for tuning caps (RJB)
   3. Re: S-19R knob (Troglodite at aol.com)
   4. Re: S-19R knob (Fred Olsen)
   5. SX-99 Tuning and Bandspread knobs (drdrd at ix.netcom.com)
   6. RE: SX-99 Tuning and Bandspread knobs (Pagel, Mike)
   7. 3-1000Z (Glen Zook)
   8. Re: Contact Cleaner? (Roy Morgan)
   9. Re: KNOBS (Mark Shaum)
  10. SX101 Help (Bill Campbell)
  11. Re HCI Web Site Is NOT Gone! (Duane Fischer, W8DBF)
  12. Fw: [Hallicrafters] SX101 Help (Bill Campbell)
  13. Dampp Chaser Thanks (Wayne Light)

--__--__--

Message: 1
To: kevin_ward at juno.com
Cc: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 08:26:59 -0500
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] RE: Contact Cleaner & Radio Chemistry 101
From: Barry Hauser <barry_hauser at juno.com>

Just happened to catch up on the posts and came across this thread on
contact cleaner -- and there was also the one on chassis cleaning.  Some
of this I know first-hand, some is heard-tell and is identified as such:

1.  The present-day closest equivalent of Cramolin is DeOxit.  I thought
I read somewhere that Caig was going to market Cramolin once again for
old time's sake.  (Probably crossed wires or a rumour.)  DeOxit is
available in at least 2 formulations -- D5 which is 5% but has 20%
"cleaning power" (see Caig site), and D-100, which is 100% contact
enhancer/lubricant/oxidation preventative.  You want the D5 to clean the
contacts.  You could use tiny amounts of D100 after they are clean.  I
think they used to have a pump spray that was 20% -- i.e., D-20, but I
don't see that any more.

2.  DeOxit should not be used for pots.  Caig makes Cailube for that. 
DeOxit may destroy the binders used in the resistor material of certain
pots.  Some have used it and survived.  Better to use Cailube or
something else made for pots.

3.  I have heard and have had some direct experience with DeOxit causing
swelling of phenolic wafers and rotors.  It is best to spray the stuff on
mini-swabs or even frayed toothpicks to individually clean contacts. 
First study the switch construction.  If the clearance between the rotor
and wafer is tight, then don't saturate.  There is supposed to be a cure,
and I've heard that the swelling does go down after a while in many
cases.  I had a bandswitch jam up on me once.

The flat of the phenolic is generally resistant, however the stuff can
soak into the edges.  I have not heard of nor had any experience with
DeOxit making insulators conductive.  Sometimes, I resort to spraying
with the nozzle -- the stationary contacts in the SP-600's, the
bandswitch tower on the tube Transoceanics.  For the latter, it's
necessary to remove all of the black goo on the switch contacts.  If you
leave any, it migrates back and continues to cause intermittents. 
Generally takes several applications to clean it and I find I do have to
soak a bit.  I do make a habit of cleaning off any excess.

4.  I have also used D5 to remove light oxidation from plated chassis,
but WD-40 seems to work well in many cases.  WD-40 is also good for
cleaning knobs and most plastics.  (It is not a good long-term lubricant
or for contact cleaning).  Avoid using 409, Simple Green, etc. on
bakelite as it will erode and dull the surface.  (been there, done that) 
This can be fixed with some plastic polish or Brasso, some elbow grease
and patience.  Another often effective cleaner which is kind to most
surfaces is waterless hand cleaner, but be careful, there are two kinds
-- with and without pumice.  When cleaning chassis, try to vacuum out or
brush out as much of the debris as possible to avoid making mud puddles
which run into everything and make matters worse.  Some of the dust may
be abrasive.  Get one of those mini attachment sets that hook up to a
regular vacuum cleaner.  An assortment of nylon or natural bristle auto
detailing brushes and old (or new?) toothbrushes can be very useful.  If
using brushes, hold the nozzle of the vacuum near the brush as you work
it so as not to succumb to the "mummy's curse".

5.  I have read that there is a potential problem with certain cleaners,
like 409, Simple Green, Fantastic, etc. if these are allowed to saturate
phenolic, ceramic or other porous insulators, switch wafers, tube
sockets, etc.  These are supposed to be "ionizing" cleaners and can leave
behind conductive salts which are nearly impossible to clean out.  The
post I read a few years ago told of arcing that resulted from this. 
Someone else confirmed a similar experience. On the other hand, there are
those who liberally apply the stuff and wash the chassis out with a
garden hose.  Dave Medley says he routinely does this with R-390 modules,
but then flushes with distilled water and either oven or sun bakes dry
and others report success with similar procedures.  I have not
experienced or done any of this.  I mention it here because an earlier
post mentioned something about contact cleaners causing conductivity
where it shouldn't be and I suspect the origin may have actually come
from the 409 reports. Before resorting to Simple Green or 409, try
something milder.  A funny thing -- plain ol' bar soap -- fat/stearate
based -- is often just the thing to clean certain forms of goo,
expecially 20 years of fingertip fallout in knob grooves.  Experiment
first with the more benign cleaners, then you can bring out the big guns
if you have to.  These cleaners are available in full strength in the
form of such products as "BH38" which can be ordered from
industrial/janitorial distributors.  

Barry



On Mon, 2 Feb 2004 02:14:10 -0500 Kevin J Ward <kevin_ward at juno.com>
writes:
> 
> I worked in avionics for 15 years or more.  Those radios had lots 
> of switches in them, often ganged with many wafers.  We used Cramolin 
> Spray exclusively; it contains a lubricant, not surprisingly called 
> Cramolin Oil.  Some of these radios were tube types from the sixties. 
Never 
> had a problem with switches swelling or developing leakage paths or
poor
> conductivity.   
> We used Lubriplate or Lithium grease in the detent mechanism.  BTW,
> Vaseline will absorb moisture from the air.  Don't use it as a 
> grease. It's not grease.  
> 
> Kevin  N2IE
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
> _______________________________________________
> List Administrator: Duane Fischer, W8DBF **for assistance**
> dfischer at usol.com
> ----
> Hallicrafters Collectors International: http://www.w9wze.org
> ----
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hallicrafters
> 
> 

--__--__--

Message: 2
Reply-To: <rjb at lynden.com>
From: "RJB" <rjb at lynden.com>
To: <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: RE: [Hallicrafters] Grommets for tuning caps
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 06:01:10 -0800

Thanks to all for your responses re the grommets. Personally i plan to
replace em with something, probably will try those gum rubber jobs from
AES - of course this may prove easier said than done - (wot the heck, i just
restrung an NC-300 dial. twice)

As others have pointed out, I see two reasons to have the grommets

1) to reduce microphonics transferred to the main tuning cap
2) reduce transfer of torque from twisting/moving the chassis, to the tuning
cap.

thanks again

Bob


--__--__--

Message: 3
From: Troglodite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 10:22:07 EST
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] S-19R knob
To: brian.crawford at shaw.ca, hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net

In a message dated 2/2/04 11:51:45 PM Central Standard Time, 
brian.crawford at shaw.ca writes:

>  Needing an S 19R knob (small one, not tuning).  Anyone interesting in
>  selling one or trading or ....

Brian,

I happen to have a spare. It's not necessarily in the greatest condition, but 
certainly better than a substitute or no knob at all. A little polishing and 
a white crayon in the dot will probably make it good as new. Yours for just an 
address to send it to.

Doug Moore KB9TMY
  

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 09:50:16 -0600
From: Fred Olsen <fwolsen at execpc.com>
Organization: Ottawa Engineering Co. - Metrology and Instrumentation Services
To: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] S-19R knob

> brian.crawford at shaw.ca writes:
>> Needing an S 19R knob

> I happen to have a spare.
> Yours for just an address
> Doug Moore KB9TMY

I love this sort of thing.  Way to go!

Fred
-- 
<><
--
Outgoing checked by Norton AV



--__--__--

Message: 5
From: drdrd at ix.netcom.com
To: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 14:25:42 -0600
Subject: [Hallicrafters] SX-99 Tuning and Bandspread knobs

I have an SX-99 which is missing both the Tuning and Bandspread 
knobs (part No. 015-200802). Does anyone know where I can 
purchase these two knobs with the brushed aluminium centers.

Thanks,


Donnie Duplissey
drdrd at ix.netcom.com
P.O. Box 270573
Houston, TX 77277



--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: RE: [Hallicrafters] SX-99 Tuning and Bandspread knobs
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 14:42:22 -0600
From: "Pagel, Mike" <mpagel at uwsp.edu>
To: <drdrd at ix.netcom.com>, <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>

Hi Donnie!

I've had good luck at http://www.antiquehamradio.com

The site owner parts out a lot of radios, including Hallicrafters
equipment.  I've gotten several knobs and other parts from this source.

73, de Mike, K9UW



-----Original Message-----
From: hallicrafters-admin at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:hallicrafters-admin at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
drdrd at ix.netcom.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 2:26 PM
To: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Hallicrafters] SX-99 Tuning and Bandspread knobs


I have an SX-99 which is missing both the Tuning and Bandspread=20
knobs (part No. 015-200802). Does anyone know where I can=20
purchase these two knobs with the brushed aluminium centers.

Thanks,


Donnie Duplissey
drdrd at ix.netcom.com
P.O. Box 270573
Houston, TX 77277


_______________________________________________
List Administrator: Duane Fischer, W8DBF **for assistance**
dfischer at usol.com
----
Hallicrafters Collectors International: http://www.w9wze.org
----
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hallicrafters

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 14:40:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Glen Zook <gzook at yahoo.com>
To: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Hallicrafters] 3-1000Z

Although this isn't directly related to Hallicrafters
equipment, someone on the list may be interested.

I have an almost brand new Eimac 3-1000Z that is
surplus to my needs.

$250 plus shipping.

Glen, K9STH

=====
Glen, K9STH

Web sites

http://home.comcast.net/~k9sth
http://home.comcast.net/~zcomco

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 17:48:24 -0500
To: rbottomleysr at dslextreme.com, hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
From: Roy Morgan <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] Contact Cleaner?

At 10:54 AM 1/31/04 -0800, rbottomleysr at dslextreme.com wrote:
>I have a very noisey band switch on my S-40A. Have thought about going to
>Radio Shack to get a can of TV tuner cleaner


ABSOLUTELY NOT

Use Caig De-Oxit or Pro-Gold.
VERY small quantities.

See www.caig.com for details and buy a sample kit of 2 CC squeeze tubes. 
For $9.95, you get all you need to do many radios if you use it very sparingly.

>   I don't want to damage the phenolic in the
>switch.

Just don't spray anything from "the shack" in there.

Roy


>_______________________________________________
>List Administrator: Duane Fischer, W8DBF **for assistance**
>dfischer at usol.com
>----
>Hallicrafters Collectors International: http://www.w9wze.org
>----
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hallicrafters

- Roy Morgan, K1LKY since 1959 - Keep 'em Glowing!
7130 Panorama Drive, Derwood MD 20855
Home: 301-330-8828 Work: Voice: 301-975-3254,  Fax: 301-948-6213
roy.morgan at nist.gov --


--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Mark Shaum" <k9tr at dtnspeed.net>
To: "Roy Morgan" <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
Cc: <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] KNOBS
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 20:09:23 -0600

Roy, great tip!  I'll try that this summer when I decide to play with
the sticky and slippery substances again.  I need more S-38 style knobs
it seems.. never enough to fit all the BA's.

Original Message -----
From: "Roy Morgan" <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] KNOBS


> At 09:44 AM 2/1/04 -0600, you wrote:
> >Wax in the inner knob setscrew hole prevents the casting material
from
> >plugging it up as the resin cures.
>
> Perhaps a well greased long set screw or bolt that goes outside the
mold
> would give you a fully threaded clear hole into the bushing.
>
> Roy



--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Bill Campbell" <wd4hen at bellsouth.net>
To: <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 20:35:32 -0600
Subject: [Hallicrafters] SX101 Help

Hi guys,

I know this should be simple (make that obvious) to remove the chassis from
the cabinet.  I have removed the eight screws from the front panel and
expected the chassis to slide out the front.  No way, she will not move even
the slightest. Now the cabinet was repainted at some point inside and out,
could it just be stuck to the paint?  This is a nice working rig, it just
needs some TLC.  Don't want to mess this one up.

Thanks in advance,

Bill - WD4HEN


--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Duane Fischer, W8DBF" <dfischer at usol.com>
To: <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 22:06:10 -0500
Subject: [Hallicrafters] Re HCI Web Site Is NOT Gone!


	
If you have tried to get on the HCI web site and received a message telling you
it was an invalid or unknown link, do not panic. I already did that for you! I
accidentally discovered a problem tonight while uploading files, Al Waller,
K3TKJ, found the cause and it has been fixed. It may be a few hours before
access to the web site is restored, but do not worry, it is not gone as it may
have appeared.			
	
Thanks to Al for the remedy, Frogzilla for screwing it up from a remote site in
FL on some beach hopping after chicks in bikinis and trying to FTP his photo on
the web site with his swim wear and to all of you for your patience. And KA1DGL,
our Web Master, the frog is in your hood bro!	
	
Duane W8DBF	



--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Bill Campbell" <wd4hen at bellsouth.net>
To: <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Fw: [Hallicrafters] SX101 Help
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 21:10:51 -0600

Hi guys,

I should have mentioned that I also removed the feet from the cabinet.

Thanks for the quick response but no brass ring yet.

Bill - WD4HEN

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Campbell" <wd4hen at bellsouth.net>
To: <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 8:35 PM
Subject: [Hallicrafters] SX101 Help


> Hi guys,
>
> I know this should be simple (make that obvious) to remove the chassis
from
> the cabinet.  I have removed the eight screws from the front panel and
> expected the chassis to slide out the front.  No way, she will not move
even
> the slightest. Now the cabinet was repainted at some point inside and out,
> could it just be stuck to the paint?  This is a nice working rig, it just
> needs some TLC.  Don't want to mess this one up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill - WD4HEN
>
> _______________________________________________
> List Administrator: Duane Fischer, W8DBF **for assistance**
> dfischer at usol.com
> ----
> Hallicrafters Collectors International: http://www.w9wze.org
> ----
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hallicrafters


--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 20:39:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Wayne Light <hwlight at sbcglobal.net>
To: Hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Hallicrafters] Dampp Chaser Thanks

Thanks for all that answered my question about the dampp chaser (that is how it is spelled on my schematic).  What a wonderful resource this group is.
 
Wayne


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